French Fridays with Dorie: Hurry-Up-and-Wait Chicken

Hurry Up and Wait Chicken

I have become a fan of roasting whole chickens in no small part thanks to Around My French Table. While growing up, roasted chicken came in from one of two popular rotisseries near my home: Fuentes BBQ in Altamesa or Nieves BBQ (before it moved to another location in neighboring town Bayamón). My mother would bake whole chicken legs or cook with chicken breasts but she left the roasting to the pros. When I have cravings for good PR style roast chicken, I almost always go to El Guateque in Cupey. Right by my work, the friendly folks at Pagán BBQ greet us by name on a weekly basis and have our usual orders committed to memory.

The adobo – that spice blend that each of these places use – is what sets apart the Puerto Rican rotisserie chicken from the spinning ones at Costco (sorry Costco, you don’t get to win this round). The typical seasoning mix includes salt, pepper, garlic powder, dry oregano, ground coriander, and bay leaf. Some cooks also add cumin to the mix. The chicken skin is also rubbed with a little oil to help it crisp.

Today’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe, Hurry-Up-and-Wait Chicken, gave us the leeway to season the chicken as we liked but roast it it using Joel Robuchon’s method.   This involves roasting the chicken sideways at high temperatures and turning it so it cooks evenly.   The chicken rests breast side down for about ten minutes so the juices redistribute to the breast.  Some may call it fussy, but I thought it was fine considering the end result. Evenly browned chicken with a juicy breast?  That we got!

Hurry Up and Wait Chicken

“Please, let me be fully cooked”

Our chicken had a modified version of the criollo seasoning I mentioned at the beginning of the post.  Instead of powdered garlic and dry oregano, I blended fresh on to a large pat of butter along with lots of salt and pepper.  I rubbed this mixture between bird’s skin and the meat, and put a little extra on the outside part of the skin.  The cavity was filled with an extra garlic head and a large bay leaf.

Now… on to the cons. I roasted my chicken on a relatively new cast iron pan, and even though I’ve seasoned it and used it frequently, it is not fully non-stick. I lost some of the chicken skin while turning it. I added extra olive oil to the pan, so I’m trying to figure out what happened here. Maybe I didn’t dry the skin enough with paper towels? The crispy skin we got was fantastic – greedy me just doesn’t want to lose any bit of it next time.

 French Fridays with Dorie is an online cooking group where we work our way through Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table.  To check all those perfectly browned chickens, click here.

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Adriana is a financial analyst by day, avid home cook in the evenings, and food blogger and runner in the strange hours between those two. When not in the kitchen concocting meals and stories to pass around, she is out looking for the next great bite (or the ingredients to make it at home), checking what's new at the market, or planning a trip around great food and wine.

16 Responses to “French Fridays with Dorie: Hurry-Up-and-Wait Chicken”

  1. November 1, 2013 at 1:40 pm #

    Ooh, your rub sounds so yummy!!! So sorry about your skin…mine tore a bit, too, with the flipping.

  2. November 1, 2013 at 3:35 pm #

    The criollo seasoning sounds like something I’d like to try. I LOVE crispy skin, alas my chicken’s skin didn’t brown much. Maybe because I was cooking vegetables in the same pot?

  3. November 1, 2013 at 5:20 pm #

    I love the sound of your seasoning! Nice one!

  4. Mary Hirsch
    November 1, 2013 at 5:41 pm #

    First, I roasted my chicken in an (old) cast iron pan also. Of course I used olive oil (okay, okay, it was seasoned duck fat that was lurking at me from the back of my fridge). I had no problem with either the vegetables (onions and potatoes) or the chicken sticking. It may be the new pan. When I flipped the chicken from one side to the other with mitts, I did lose some skin, unfortunately. Secondly, you mention the spice blend called Adobo and I found that very interesting. Then, at the end of your Post, you mention Criollo seasoning. What it that? Did I miss something. Are the one and the same? I’ve already been thrown for a loop by the closing of the Sriracha plant in California, Ms. Puerto Rico, I cannot handle any more flavoring confusion. Enjoyed your Post. Good pictures also.

    • November 2, 2013 at 6:31 pm #

      Adobo is the word in Spanish used in Puerto Rico and the Spanish Caribbean for the spice blend used to season meat, pork and poultry. I called it later in the post criollo seasoning, but it is technically the same. You can find it already mixed together in the Latin foods section of the supermarket. On a side note (and to confuse poor Mary even more), it should not be confused with the adobo from chipotle chiles. Two different things!

      Criollo is the Spanish word for creole… and that is the fusion of Spanish and French with the native cultures in the Americas. That applies to the people, the food, etc.

  5. November 1, 2013 at 7:57 pm #

    I like the sound of your spice mix – I like a spicy chicken.

    • November 2, 2013 at 6:31 pm #

      It’s not really spicy… but very savory! 🙂 I’ll try to work out a post with the proportions so you can all use it.

  6. November 1, 2013 at 8:34 pm #

    Your rub sounds so good…I wrote it down for next time. Your chicken came out perfect! It looks simply delicious! Glad you enjoyed it…this was definitely a hit in my house, however I did not enjoy the flipping every 25 minutes. Would I make it again, you bet!! Have a wonderful weekend, Adriana!

  7. November 1, 2013 at 11:53 pm #

    I’m glad someone else butters between the skin and the meat – I think it adds so much flavor to the meat. Great rub too! If you get a chance to get some winter truffles, they are terrific between the butter and the skin too! Great post! Enjoy your Instagram photos too 🙂

  8. November 2, 2013 at 1:25 am #

    The spice mix sounds good!

  9. November 2, 2013 at 10:13 am #

    Yum, that PR chicken blend sounds delicious. We love roast chicken around here and make it pretty regularly. I may have to give your blend a try some time. But probably not with this method of cooking the bird again, I found it to be a bit too much back and forth to the oven. I like to just throw everything in there and then leave it alone until it’s done.

  10. November 3, 2013 at 11:14 am #

    You had me laughing about the Costco chicken because while it is not the organic ready made ones you can pick up at Whole Foods…..there is a Costco on the way home from work and many a night I feel like they should be cueing the angels singing as I see the loaded roti chicken display 🙂 Yes, so that was my benchmark. I esp love the part about where you can stop on your own way home and those amazing spices that you get to enjoy in PR. Fabulous. For the record, I was at Nana’s house during flipping time and her bird stuck a bit even with oi in the enamel pan. I used Calphalon and had the same issue. With all that flipping I guess there is an equal addition of opportunities to stick. Great post – glad you two enjoyed it !!

  11. November 4, 2013 at 9:00 am #

    I had some stickage with my enameled cast iron pot as well – I just figured I didn’t use enough oil.
    Adobo was a great idea – yum!

  12. November 5, 2013 at 4:04 am #

    Adriana, your roast chicken has a wonderful color – it looks like your particular spice rub was a fabulous idea – it is interesting to read about all the different ways to add spice to a roast chicken. I am afraid I am a rather conservative homecook as far as spices are concerned – much to learn in that department.
    It is also terrrfic that we all seem to agree that the chicken was certainly moist and delicious in the end – even if the flipping and turning was a tad awkward!
    Have a fabulous week, Adriana!

  13. November 6, 2013 at 5:24 pm #

    The cast iron makes for such a pretty presentation. I’m sorry some of the skin stuck. Your seasoning mix sounds excellent. I love that everyone did something different with this recipe.

  14. November 27, 2013 at 6:50 am #

    I love the sound of the spice mix you used for your chicken – no wonder you were regretting the loss of some of the skin! I thought this was a terrific method, even with the fussiness of the turns.

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